Olé Reviews

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South-of-the-border via Suffern
DENNIS A. CHANSKY
For The Journal News

Approaching half a decade since it opened, Olé Olé, a Mexican restaurant in Suffern, has survived these critical years. It has nimbly navigated an expansion into an empty store next door for more table space. The menu is just as solid and fairly priced as when they first opened the doors. And service, while not polished, is earnest.

The one area where Ole, Ole has regressed concerns its margarita-making. Once, their made-to-order margaritas set the standard with highlights of sweet, sour and saltiness. But, now a half-pitcher of margaritas ($10) is too sweet and too similar to what other bars serve.

Handmade empanadas ($5.95) were crispy, flaky and golden with sweet and savory seasoned ground-beef filling. Rich, thick mango and cilantro salsa reinforced the sweet/savory dichotomy, and added wonderful color.

Taco salad ($8.95) emphasized ! the salad, with lightly dressed greens compressed in the base of the bowl-shaped fried flour tortilla. Thoroughly spiced ground beef that had been cooked in red sauce was spooned over the top of the leaves, before the crown of cheese and sour cream was applied.

Ropa Vieja ($12.95), is shredded beef slowly simmered in red sauce. A fair amount of barbecued chipotle pepper was worked into the sauce as well. Served over rice, the platter was garnished with plump, firm black beans and sauteed plantains.

Chicken enchiladas ($9.95) did not contain any slow-cooked chicken. Instead, they were filled to bursting with diced grilled chicken breast. A spoonful of firm guacamole meshed perfectly with the thin, spicy red sauce the rolled tortillas were baked in.

Baked grouper special ($16.95) was steeped in a loose dressing made from fresh tomato, garlic and green herbs, and topped with pickled jalapeño slices.

There was only one house made dessert mixed! in among the selections of commercial cakes: flan ($3.95). Made flat and firm, in the Mexican style, the wedge of custard was garnished with both caramel syrup and honey.

Published April 29, 2004